Jewelry in collaboration with Birgit Toke Tauka and Tanaporn Wongsa
Photography by Elizabeth Gabrielle Lee
The most recent collection continues to draw on her mixed Malaysian-Swedish heritage, reflecting references to folk dress, the exploration of traditional mythology and shamanism, as well as investigations of and adaptations to contemporary modes of itinerant living. The designs attempt to strike a balance between ritualism, ease, intuitiveness, emotion, sensuality, and magic. The collection marks a shift for Azura Lovisa towards more modular, adaptable, gender fluid design, focusing on small runs of garments in unique limited-stock fabrics and one-off editions, while also making the entire archive of previous collections available on a made-to-order basis.
As an exercise in minimizing waste, the collection samples have been made with leftover fabrics from previous collections as well as an assortment of unique textiles collected over the years, rather than sourcing all new materials. Garments are rendered in a rich and sumptuously textured mix of distinctive raw Thai silks, diaphanous sheer checked silk, Malay silk songket in traditional checked patterns interwoven with gold thread motifs, airy ramie, deadstock silks and cottons, and characteristic horsehair cloth, in neutral colors punctuated by bright jewel tones.
The utilitarian designs, some of which can be tied and worn in various ways and feature modular detachable bags and pockets, are adorned with a range of statement brooches created in collaboration with jewelry designers Tanaporn Wongsa and Birgit Frietman. The jewelry references the Malay folk magic practice of susuk, the ancient art of embedding charmed gold needles and diamond shards under the skin as talismans, as well as other traditional practices which often enact the use of plant-based ingredients like roots, flowers, and spices. The gold brooches, some in a crescent shape and others cast from roots, are adorned by an assortment of charms tied on with metal wire or thread, cast or electroformed in metal as well as in their raw organic forms.